17 Apr 2011

Introduction

Dear all,

The posts on this blog are the diary entries for my recent trek to Everest Base Camp. The posts are - aside from corrections of punctuation, spelling and grammar - precisely as they appear in the diary I took with me for that venture.

Clicking 'older' to get to the next entry may seem counter-intuitive, but it does display everything in the right order on the main pages :~)

Best wishes,

Chris

Route Map

18th March

1010hrs, Bahrain

It doesn’t quite feel like the adventure has begun. Am I as tired and bored of waiting as I claimed, or have the months at CCN really worn me that badly?

Either way I’m here in Bahrain, waiting with the team for our flight to Kathmandu. As well as the Snowdon crew I’ve now met the rest; Jeff, Amish, Katherine, etc. Alistair, our tour doc, has his lil book of people out and is making notes about us.

CJ is still asleep and has been for maybe an hour. Asgar, Sammy, Amish, Vicki and Hanifa are all getting shut-eye, Matt is on his phone again, with his beard, next to a clean-shaven Danny and chatting with Shehnaz. Christine and Katherine are chatting quietly, Paz is resting, Justin is awake but looks tired and Baz is sleeping with book in hand.

Not a good start thus far; two white wines on the plane led to me nearly throwing up and sweating hard, and even now my stomach is roiling. Doesn’t help having missed my Lanzoprazole two days straight and being bone-tired already! Maybe me travel-sick has resurfaced as well. Perhaps nerves as well.

Already I’m known for being talkative and I’ve vented a lot about CCN, so perhaps my anger management is leaking. But to hell with that place; I’m in Bahrain, en route to Everest. Finally! Bahrain is currently a troubled nation but I’ve heard no gunfire and seen no explosions, so as yet we appear to be safe.

My hand wound is not looking healthy, but I’m not feeling the sprain at the moment. My handstand on Kala Patthar is a bit more unlikely now though, however I will still try on the day. It’s what I’m here for!

Had a good chat with Jeff about the coming 48hrs – we land in Kathmandu this evening, eat, briefing, sleep, then up at 0530hrs to start our day. We’ll fly out to Lukla tomorrow (Sat.) and do a gentle four hours or so to our first point. I’m going to start the Diamox proper now – even if Justin did laugh – but I have enough to be taking it as prophylaxis the whole time. We’ll see how it goes. And it’s to see if the pressure headaches were related to the tabs or not.

Not happy with Bahrain toilets – holes in the ground. Will wait for Kathmandu before I start trying, especially since I’m in my good shoes! Jeff says I won’t squat for long when I do go though, which is good to hear.

Very tired. Got some sleep on train to Heathrow (Underground Liverpool -> Heathrow 4 is about an hour by the way) and a bit on the plane after dinner (and half of Harry Potter); as long as I get to bed @ 2200hrs tonight I shouldn’t be too jet-lagged. Already set my watch to Nepal TZ and it’s now 1345hrs.

Constant ringtones going off – grr! Especially someone whose ringtone is the as mine or the Ops phone.

Matt is currently advising Raja to relax; he and Sue were off exploring I assume.

Been toying with the idea of buying a panda teddy to take with on the trek. Not sure if it would be romantic or nasty to give it to Amanda after.

Time to fly!

-Chris
Waiting in the airport - photo courtesy of Hanifa

19th March

0710hrs, Kathmandu

I am very tired tiger.

The flight from Bahrain did not go as planned; as we approached Kathmandu word came through that we were to circle due to “unfavourable landing conditions.” Well, turns out those “unfavourable landing conditions” were in fact a nice big thunderstorm! Although it provided beautiful viewing, it meant we eventually were rerouted to Lucknow, India, due to low fuel and poor flying conditions.

Landing in Lucknow resulted in Bureaucracy as the unscheduled landing required Customs clearance just to be allowed to refuel and take off again, let alone get off the plane. So after three or four hours chilling in first class with the cabin crew and fending off mossies we were airborne once more without being able to set foot on Indian soil. Hey, we were there.

We finally reached the Malla at @ 2330hrs, dog-tired and not looking forward to the short night ahead. Jeff wanted to deliver the pre-trek briefing, we needed to repack our bags so our trek stuff was in the (extremely cool) CAT bags and our BHF bags staying in storage, and eat! All with a 0530hrs reveille.

Change of plan – in order to secure a flight (due to the storm the previous day) we were to leave the Malla @ 0500hrs – meaning getting up at 0400hrs! By the time Amish and I had repacked, poo’d in the last good toilet in Nepal, Amish aborted an attempt at showering and a call from his Dad, we crashed at @ 0200hrs.
Amish and I repack
Looks like my watch alarm doesn’t work – maybe I need Cox’s Drunk Tramp Alarm? Amish woke me at 0410hrs (although I originally swore he said 0830hrs!) and we were at breakfast by half-past. And a grand breakfast too – croissant, cheese, ham, potatoes and onions, sausages, steak, a boiled egg, a brew, and half a litre of fruit juice! After getting 11,650 rupees and picking up all our bags we were off to the airport.

Driving Kathmandu is in and of itself an adventure. Although there is a speed limit and they drive English-side, it is something of a free-for-all as pedestrians, bikes, buses and cars keep vaguely to their side of the road. But it’s not manic, or even that dangerous it seems (except on a bike) – I suppose with everyone so used to the roads and all rather skilled drivers in this environ, it all works.

We’ve been in Kathmandu airport for about 90min now as our flight keeps getting set back – but it is quite grey outside, even it is very warm (sweating in the hotel room last night even in just t-shirt and boxers!). I’m so far only in lightweight-order, although my heavy trousers and BHF fleece are in my straining rucksack and my waterproof coat is to hand should Lukla be uncomfortable.

Quite a few of us have been updating diaries and drinking tea while we wait – although Amish is tempting fate with ‘Into Thin Air’ in hand while Sammy reads ‘Ant and Dec’ instead. We’re all tired after 2hrs sleep but in reasonable spirits, even after yesterday’s adventure. I do believe we will all sleep well tonight though!

Water is already a concern, with only 1.5l allocated to us today, so I may buy a big bottle to fill up with in a moment. At 200R for a 2l bottle I imagine most my money will regrettably go on this expensive yet vital commodity – which is a shame, as we have been told of a teahouse that will give us a room for 2000R/night where will be acclimatising at some point.

I managed to find a map of our route for 800R here at the airport, which is nice and the main thing I wanted to purchase, so I will be referring to that often as I write.

CJ just sat to catch up with her diary – like me (and others I believe) she is still catching up with yesterday!

Oh, someone fainted. Alistair, security and his friends are all there so I’m not needed. I’ll go get more water then.

Nice and cool now – standing up under a fan as I write. Was a little upset going through Customs earlier as they confiscated my yellow rope since it could strangle someone. Then again they didn’t find my Leatherman and pen-knife – even with them being in the same fluorescent bag and picking up the former! – nor my syringes, so in all the loss was minor and only emotional.

Christine called my writing “interesting” and “emotional” – I just say it’s scruffy!

-Chris
One of the planes on the Lukla route

20th March

0620hrs, Kathmandu

Excitement has turned to disappointment, and hope with a touch of despair.

As you can surmise from the date-stamp, we didn’t make it to Lukla. When we finally boarded at @1030hrs Red Team took off with a slew of other planes trying to make the best of the gap in the weather.

Red Team are off now. 0623hrs

Green Team – Matt, Baz, Asgar, Vicki, Paz, myself and Sarita – were left on our plane on the runway, which became a blessing. After first having to “wait one” as too many planes were approaching Lukla, we then got the word that bad weather had descended and all planes were being turned around.

We got off lightly. Even Jeff, our veteran mountain leader, rated the flight as Top Five Worst – apparently they circled fifteen times before being sent home, stuck in a “ping-pong ball.” Amish described it as a “roller-coaster” and it was quite literally a white-knuckle ride. Poor CJ’s tummy found it too much.

As word came back that flights to Lukla were indeed cancelled for the day and a last-minute attempt to bribe a helicopter pilot fell through, it was home-time. As a weary and disappointed exped team slept, ate and sunbathed, Kat, Jeff, CAT and BHF constructed Plan B. With Kala Patthar now pretty much out of the question and Base Camp an unattainable if we didn’t fly out on Sunday, it was time to look at another potion – Annapurna being out Plan B.

After a briefing on the situation at 1730hrs we all departed for a meal out that everyone agreed was much-needed. Although the wonderful Hanifa was our optimist and ray of sunshine, many showing their concern, dismay and desperation. Danny was visibly heartbroken and my foul mouth betrayed my anger and frustration at the turn of events.

Dinner was fantastic. Our waiter – Daimon? – was the source of entertainment with his cheery demeanour, cheeky smile and tendency to appear very close to your ear with his trademark “Excuse me, sir/ma’am?” Jeff revealed his cool background – his farm in Scotland, his rock band ‘Midlife Crisis’ and harrowing tales of landing in a warzone in the mountains, bullets whizzing by the fuselage as his pilot read the paper, dragging a dead body off the runway and death-defying dive through thick cloud-cover. I was treated to an Everest beer, a smooth and delicious beverage that I hope I can afford to purchase at some point.

Right now Green Team are here waiting in Kathmandu with Red Team already airborne. Matt, Paz and I are all scribbling as we wait, capturing these moments and thoughts. I certainly we all reach Lukla today, as failure to do so means no Everest for us. TBH, I would rather we did Annapurna if we can’t reach Lukla today – I couldn’t handle the disappointment, only getting halfway there, and would rather achieve something then only a halfway-house. However that is a divisive opinion. Some would rather make the best attempt they could on the trail and at least see Everest; some would prefer to achieve Annapurna as a second-place; some have kept their counsel. But with so many flights currently taking place today then perhaps we do not have to worry about all this.

I wish I could communicate all this to Amanda, tell her how I worried I really am. I don’t think I could handle the disappointment of not making it to Everest. I don’t think I’d have another chance, at least not until I have a wage and could pay sponsorship myself – I’ve had to pay so much of this myself as it is, and I couldn’t assure any more generosity the next time around to make up for the £1,250 I put in myself. This trip has wiped me of cash, and I certainly would need a couple of years to recover, let alone try again.

Boots feel a touch tight and strange pains in my heel – not blister pains though. Maybe my feet are simply bored of inactivity.

Apparently our co-pilot is missing, potentially recovering from a night out. I love you, Amanda.

The Diamox has yet to produce noticeably-adverse side-effects – although I had two bouts of nocturia last night, it’s hardly unusual. No squits yet either, but that’s easy to avoid in a hotel as good as the Malla.

There are a lot surprised faces over the state of Kathmandu, and it’s not hard to understand why. The capital of Nepal does seem like a shanty-town at many points, with piles of rubbish roadside and dilapidated buildings, the eclectic road system, stray dogs and shops that in the UK would appear third-rate at best. But Nepal is not a rich country at all and we are all very used to developed, rich countries. England may be in a recession but we all have clean water from a tap, three full meals a day, dogs as pets that we do not fear to pet, and so much more. Maybe we only get one holiday a year or have to by Value food instead (and hey, I do already!) but for those who complain of “poverty” when they own two cars and put three kids through Uni may want to think again about how “bad” our recession really is.

Enough of my JD impression. It’s 0710hrs and our flight has not yet departed – then again, it has not yet been delayed or cancelled. Red Team may already be in Lukla and the fear is that we get left behind. That would be fickle Fate at its best – seven of us left behind, just through chance.

Sleep would be good. Physically I am rested – with three days of sit-and-wait I am fine. But mentally the emotional roller-coaster of yesterday and barely 6hrs/day sleep – all disjoint and spread out through our day – I and others look forward to a long night in our tents.

-Chris


Waiting for our second flight - photo courtesy of Matt
1630hrs, Kathmandu

…yeah.

I wouldn’t say the situation is “bad,” because that implies danger and peril. But they are not good. Perhaps “interesting,” “frustrating,” maybe even “difficult” would be apt. Red Squadron are now making camp up in the Khumbu valley, some 1,500m above Green Wing – who are still stuck in Kathmandu.

Red Squadron landed after 45min in the air – a full 20min longer than usual, due to high winds. At least one other flight made it, but the word is that those two really should have turned around. Green Wing this time managed to taxi up and down the runway before we were ejected and 20min later our flights – and all flights to Lukla – were cancelled. Wind, not fog, was now our foe, and with flights called off at 0900hrs – 3hrs ahead of scheduled cut-off – one must assume the weather is pretty poor en route.

Despair and frustration weighed on Green Wing – Vicki, Asgar, Paz, Matt, Baz, Sarita and I – as we glumly returned to the Malla – even a CAT helicopter was no option at this point. I think “heartbroken” is the best way for me to describe my emotions. I want to curl up and cry, hit the pillows in frustration and then sleep. Energy and optimism are becoming rare commodities as we all know Base Camp is now a dim hope, that even if we land tomorrow first thing we’ll be lucky to make it. A though that brings a lump to my throat.

Logistically we have a bit of a nightmare. Jeff, Kat and Alistair are up on the mountain – our guide, rep and doctor. Asgar has Hanifa’s luggage and vice versa. The porters and kit are up there and with Red Team.

There is, however, hope. We still have first priority tomorrow morning – and I wonder how many rupees passed hands for that to occur two days running. Red Squadron would not leave us behind – Hanifa and Shehnaz want Asgar, Vicki and Christine seem quite close, Danny and Matt get on well and in all they are decent people who want us to be a Team. Matt is completely confident they’ll wait and I am inclined to believe him.

Personally I find this difficult. My impulsive reaction is to land first thing and then plough to Namche Bazaar in a day. It’s only 15km by the map, and the ascent is only a modest 600m – so pretty much Snowdon. But then one considers the factors; we start at 2,840m, which anyone would call ‘high’ and find hard. We’re all tired and mentally drained from the last two days. Without Jeff and Alistair we’re in a bit of trouble – although Sarita has been nine times and is a trained high-altitude nurse so it’s not as bad, especially with a small team. But could I physically handle that? Adrenaline would be high, but this would be our first taste of altitude and Himalayan trekking. Would we reach Namche Bazaar only to collapse, spent? While emotions say “go for it,” years of experience and temperance counsel patience and take our time, do it properly. We never know just what rabbit we’ll pull from the hat.

Mum, I know you always say that I somehow make it, that I always pull it off no matter the odds. But this is beyond me now.

Buying the Kala Patthar and Base Camp flash patches now seem very premature – but given I was unaware of their prevalence (I now seem to find them everywhere thus far) I wasn’t going to not buy them in case they never reappeared. But Matt and Vicki took them to be our Jonah and wanted them to go to the whale – first burned, then kept with Ian from CAT to be returned when I get back. After making a show of handing them over, I then got them back off Ian because hell, that’s not my superstition. Well, kinda.

I will make it to Base Camp. If not this time, then I’ll sign on again in a few years and do it all again. Perhaps I’ll have to pay the whole lot myself, but this is my dream, what I want to do, and I will do it. I’ll admit that, again, my impulse if roles were reversed would be to surge on and carry on with the trek in two teams, but again experience and decency demand that I’d argue for waiting and reforming the whole team.

To be sure the next few days will be an interesting dynamic at best. With so few of us in a slightly different situation we may just bond quicker – equally we may become much less tolerant of one another in close quarters brought about by a mad run of bad luck. We all have a more immediate common goal to aspire to – rendezvous with Red Squadron and discuss our new Plan B. Where and when that’ll be, who knows. Perhaps tomorrow, or Tuesday, or even Wednesday. We’re playing catch-up now, and that in its own way will be fun.

Ian and Sarita have been brilliant to us – we were taken out to the Bouddha Buddhist temple for dinner and a wander around; more Everest beer courtesy of Baz, a full plate of chicken momo (steamed dumplings) and a relaxing walk around an island of serenity in the middle of this crazy city. For a few moments we would forget our woes and find a glimpse of peace and solitude – but the moment we were out of there the gloom returned, a dark blanket of depression settling over the much-reduced team. Certainly the frustrating failure was forever at the edge of my thoughts, teasing me every two minutes. Yes, we get a nice bed and a long sleep and a full breakfast…but by now we should have made a good dent in our walk.

Matt has set his sights now on reaching Gorak Shep, the original Base Camp as used by Hillary and the rest of the early expeditions. And while that is still a Base Camp, a prize we could return home with, it would never satisfy me. I had my sights set on summiting Kala Patthar. My heart was on Base Camp, five thousand three hundred and sixty-four metres above sea level. I want to have been to Everest, not the next town over. So if I fail and I have to return, so be it.

Ian and Sarita have invited us to theirs for dinner – I heard the word ‘barbeque.’ Given the last three days, I wouldn’t be surprised if it rained.

-Chris
The stupa

21st March

Evening, Monjo

Walk-time: 8.5 hrs – albeit leisurely!
Ascent/Descent: 2840m (Lukla) – 2580m (Thado Koshigaaon) – 2835m (Monjo)

Yeah, it rained.

But it was a brilliant night. Sarita and her sisters laid on an amazing meal – rice, chicken curry, paneer curry, dahl (black lentil thingy), green veg curry and refreshing water. After the calming effect our dinner and temple trip had been, a feast with friends was what we needed – although Ian did have to pick up another flight at 1930hrs so didn’t join us for tea.

The storm did very little – a few flashes and rumbles, a smattering of rain, and that was it. Although the drive through Kathmandu was long and interesting thanks to the ever-shifting traffic. In all though, we agreed that it was sorely needed to lift our spirits – and I think Ian and Sarita knew that. They’ve been doing this for years and would know when a group are feeling low, and they went out of their way to care for us and do the best in a bad situation.

Matt, Paz, Vicki and I just chatted about the mistakes that have occurred, and in all I think blame cannot be laid fully at feet – these last few days have been as much a nightmare for them as it has been for us. I think there should be a few changes (mainly splitting up the trek staff so there was a more equal split, especially having Jeff and Kat on different flights).

Today has been amazing though, well worth the heartache of the last two days. In through by Kathmandu airport 0600hrs – after a somewhat-less brilliant breakfast in comparison to two full fry-ups – and by 0630hrs we were on the plane. The flight was great though, if a little scary as crosswinds shook our light aircraft. It was a real contrast too – sat at the starboard window it was low, brown rolling hills while out Vicki’s window were towering white peaks, imposing mountains. The landing was certainly a heart-stopper as we hit – almost literally! – the runway and fire uphill with all anchors jamming. I video’d the landing from my window, Matt got a view from the cockpit and Baz from port, so between us a 180degree view of the landing.

Stepping out of the plane felt amazing, and after laughing and clearing the petrol-y smell of the runway I felt the cool air straight away on my nose, clearing it beautifully.

Dinner!

-Chris
The view from Lukla airport

22nd March

1305hrs, Namche Bazaar

Walk-time: 4.5hrs
Ascent/Descent: 2835m (Monjo) – 2740m (Thumbug) – 3440m (Namche Bazaar)

Matt doesn’t sound too good; he’s complaining of not feeling like he’s getting enough oxygen. He’s resting now so hopefully it’ll do him good; if it is AMS then we just hope it’s mild.

Yesterday’s walk was simply amazing and I must have started laughing every fifteen minutes over the beauty and homeliness of it. It didn’t take long for us to shed outer layers and walk around basking in the glorious sunshine. We very much took our time – with the walking starting at about 0800hrs, we literally had all day to undulate our way to Monjo.

It was a lovely break-in day as well; terrain was constantly stone paths and treks, some steep and some shallow climbs/drops, and the chance to simply enjoy the scenery. No-one seemed particularly troubled by the pace and with a stop for tea and a lunch break (yak steak is very good!) we strolled into Monjo just before the sun hid behind the clouds and mountains and the chill set in.
The view on the way to Monjo
To say I was awed and a little intimidated by the view is no romanticism; walking through valleys with peaks towering 2,000m above you is crazy, wonderful and scary. It is wonderful and Alpine at this altitude, with 30 Celsius + beating down on you and rushing glacial rivers. Yet the moment the sun hides behind a peak the chill air grips you in seconds, the wind pushing that cold a little deeper, and suddenly these peaks are far more intimidating and you realise that you, the human being so bold as to walk in their shadow and dare to challenge their might and majesty, are nothing.

The night-shot photo from that day is of Thamserku; at 6618m it was a full twice the altitude of our resting point of Monjo and maybe 6km away as well.

It was a short and restful evening – after being given a cup of tea – take with one sugar – we were allocated our rooms and changed, although I believe I was the only member of Green Squadron not to shower. Hey, it’s camping conditions! Having realised I should have bought my baggy trousers as nightwear I jumped straight into PJs and a thermal under before having tea.

The night didn’t last much longer for me – after spending a moment admiring the unspoiled, clear night sky – clearer even than Italy – it was time for bed.

My sleeping bag is snug – within seconds of climbing in it was as comfortable as any duvet and heating system. And I was out like a light! I woke up maybe three times in the night, but in all I had 10hrs of sleep. When I woke up I felt brilliant and rested, ready for the day – then again when I first work at 2330hrs it felt like it was already 0400hrs. I think I’ve really started to get used to these power-naps!

Red Team just returned to camp, so I’ll finish later.

-Chris
Green Team en route to Namche - photo courtesy of Matt
1845hrs

Baz is something of a hero.

He’s 73yrs old, has one lung which is suffering from pneumonia, has done countless marathons, attempted Kilimanjaro and managed to get very close…no excuse for any of us not to make it.

Sitting in our little tea-room with the boiler roasting my sun-burnt face, waiting for dinner which will be very soon given our cooks are laying the table. A group of the girls are playing Pairs as small conversations go on around the edges – despite the fun of the last few days, Green and Red teams are now reabsorbed.

Today started at 0620hrs with Matt and the rest already up – last night was a very restful night after all! With a quick pack which meant I couldn’t find my padlock and wolfing down breakfast we were off by 0745hrs and on our way.

Today’s walk was something of a heads-down slog the whole way – a steep downhill to start, undulating routes, a steep climb to one heck of a scary bridge and then just up, up, up all the way to Namche. It was a good pace of walk, rest to let everyone catch up, then walk again.

And our first view of Mount Everest. I walked mainly up front today (except Baz, who would start earlier) so while I waited at one corner for the group our temp guide waved me up and pointed out Everest to me. My first view of her from the ground and well worth the wait and pain as we watched the jet-stream batter its peak, snow streaming off the summit almost as if it was venting.
First view of Mount Everest
Another view – a more photographic one as well – occurred just after I broke 3000m on foot for the first time. Sarita’s altimeter says we were at 3050m when I took that next set of photos – the ones with the sonic screwdriver pointing it out!

We reached Namche just after midday, and predictably Red Squadron were out on an acclimatisation trek. They returned at around 1400hrs.

-Chris