19th March

0710hrs, Kathmandu

I am very tired tiger.

The flight from Bahrain did not go as planned; as we approached Kathmandu word came through that we were to circle due to “unfavourable landing conditions.” Well, turns out those “unfavourable landing conditions” were in fact a nice big thunderstorm! Although it provided beautiful viewing, it meant we eventually were rerouted to Lucknow, India, due to low fuel and poor flying conditions.

Landing in Lucknow resulted in Bureaucracy as the unscheduled landing required Customs clearance just to be allowed to refuel and take off again, let alone get off the plane. So after three or four hours chilling in first class with the cabin crew and fending off mossies we were airborne once more without being able to set foot on Indian soil. Hey, we were there.

We finally reached the Malla at @ 2330hrs, dog-tired and not looking forward to the short night ahead. Jeff wanted to deliver the pre-trek briefing, we needed to repack our bags so our trek stuff was in the (extremely cool) CAT bags and our BHF bags staying in storage, and eat! All with a 0530hrs reveille.

Change of plan – in order to secure a flight (due to the storm the previous day) we were to leave the Malla @ 0500hrs – meaning getting up at 0400hrs! By the time Amish and I had repacked, poo’d in the last good toilet in Nepal, Amish aborted an attempt at showering and a call from his Dad, we crashed at @ 0200hrs.

Amish and I repack

Looks like my watch alarm doesn’t work – maybe I need Cox’s Drunk Tramp Alarm? Amish woke me at 0410hrs (although I originally swore he said 0830hrs!) and we were at breakfast by half-past. And a grand breakfast too – croissant, cheese, ham, potatoes and onions, sausages, steak, a boiled egg, a brew, and half a litre of fruit juice! After getting 11,650 rupees and picking up all our bags we were off to the airport.

Driving Kathmandu is in and of itself an adventure. Although there is a speed limit and they drive English-side, it is something of a free-for-all as pedestrians, bikes, buses and cars keep vaguely to their side of the road. But it’s not manic, or even that dangerous it seems (except on a bike) – I suppose with everyone so used to the roads and all rather skilled drivers in this environ, it all works.

We’ve been in Kathmandu airport for about 90min now as our flight keeps getting set back – but it is quite grey outside, even it is very warm (sweating in the hotel room last night even in just t-shirt and boxers!). I’m so far only in lightweight-order, although my heavy trousers and BHF fleece are in my straining rucksack and my waterproof coat is to hand should Lukla be uncomfortable.

Quite a few of us have been updating diaries and drinking tea while we wait – although Amish is tempting fate with ‘Into Thin Air’ in hand while Sammy reads ‘Ant and Dec’ instead. We’re all tired after 2hrs sleep but in reasonable spirits, even after yesterday’s adventure. I do believe we will all sleep well tonight though!

Water is already a concern, with only 1.5l allocated to us today, so I may buy a big bottle to fill up with in a moment. At 200R for a 2l bottle I imagine most my money will regrettably go on this expensive yet vital commodity – which is a shame, as we have been told of a teahouse that will give us a room for 2000R/night where will be acclimatising at some point.

I managed to find a map of our route for 800R here at the airport, which is nice and the main thing I wanted to purchase, so I will be referring to that often as I write.

CJ just sat to catch up with her diary – like me (and others I believe) she is still catching up with yesterday!

Oh, someone fainted. Alistair, security and his friends are all there so I’m not needed. I’ll go get more water then.

Nice and cool now – standing up under a fan as I write. Was a little upset going through Customs earlier as they confiscated my yellow rope since it could strangle someone. Then again they didn’t find my Leatherman and pen-knife – even with them being in the same fluorescent bag and picking up the former! – nor my syringes, so in all the loss was minor and only emotional.

Christine called my writing “interesting” and “emotional” – I just say it’s scruffy!

-Chris

One of the planes on the Lukla route