22nd March

1305hrs, Namche Bazaar

Walk-time: 4.5hrs

Ascent/Descent: 2835m (Monjo) – 2740m (Thumbug) – 3440m (Namche Bazaar)

Matt doesn’t sound too good; he’s complaining of not feeling like he’s getting enough oxygen. He’s resting now so hopefully it’ll do him good; if it is AMS then we just hope it’s mild.

Yesterday’s walk was simply amazing and I must have started laughing every fifteen minutes over the beauty and homeliness of it. It didn’t take long for us to shed outer layers and walk around basking in the glorious sunshine. We very much took our time – with the walking starting at about 0800hrs, we literally had all day to undulate our way to Monjo.

It was a lovely break-in day as well; terrain was constantly stone paths and treks, some steep and some shallow climbs/drops, and the chance to simply enjoy the scenery. No-one seemed particularly troubled by the pace and with a stop for tea and a lunch break (yak steak is very good!) we strolled into Monjo just before the sun hid behind the clouds and mountains and the chill set in.

The view on the way to Monjo

To say I was awed and a little intimidated by the view is no romanticism; walking through valleys with peaks towering 2,000m above you is crazy, wonderful and scary. It is wonderful and Alpine at this altitude, with 30 Celsius + beating down on you and rushing glacial rivers. Yet the moment the sun hides behind a peak the chill air grips you in seconds, the wind pushing that cold a little deeper, and suddenly these peaks are far more intimidating and you realise that you, the human being so bold as to walk in their shadow and dare to challenge their might and majesty, are nothing.

The night-shot photo from that day is of Thamserku; at 6618m it was a full twice the altitude of our resting point of Monjo and maybe 6km away as well.

It was a short and restful evening – after being given a cup of tea – take with one sugar – we were allocated our rooms and changed, although I believe I was the only member of Green Squadron not to shower. Hey, it’s camping conditions! Having realised I should have bought my baggy trousers as nightwear I jumped straight into PJs and a thermal under before having tea.

The night didn’t last much longer for me – after spending a moment admiring the unspoiled, clear night sky – clearer even than Italy – it was time for bed.

My sleeping bag is snug – within seconds of climbing in it was as comfortable as any duvet and heating system. And I was out like a light! I woke up maybe three times in the night, but in all I had 10hrs of sleep. When I woke up I felt brilliant and rested, ready for the day – then again when I first work at 2330hrs it felt like it was already 0400hrs. I think I’ve really started to get used to these power-naps!

Red Team just returned to camp, so I’ll finish later.

-Chris

Green Team en route to Namche - photo courtesy of Matt

1845hrs

Baz is something of a hero.

He’s 73yrs old, has one lung which is suffering from pneumonia, has done countless marathons, attempted Kilimanjaro and managed to get very close…no excuse for any of us not to make it.

Sitting in our little tea-room with the boiler roasting my sun-burnt face, waiting for dinner which will be very soon given our cooks are laying the table. A group of the girls are playing Pairs as small conversations go on around the edges – despite the fun of the last few days, Green and Red teams are now reabsorbed.

Today started at 0620hrs with Matt and the rest already up – last night was a very restful night after all! With a quick pack which meant I couldn’t find my padlock and wolfing down breakfast we were off by 0745hrs and on our way.

Today’s walk was something of a heads-down slog the whole way – a steep downhill to start, undulating routes, a steep climb to one heck of a scary bridge and then just up, up, up all the way to Namche. It was a good pace of walk, rest to let everyone catch up, then walk again.

And our first view of Mount Everest. I walked mainly up front today (except Baz, who would start earlier) so while I waited at one corner for the group our temp guide waved me up and pointed out Everest to me. My first view of her from the ground and well worth the wait and pain as we watched the jet-stream batter its peak, snow streaming off the summit almost as if it was venting.

First view of Mount Everest

Another view – a more photographic one as well – occurred just after I broke 3000m on foot for the first time. Sarita’s altimeter says we were at 3050m when I took that next set of photos – the ones with the sonic screwdriver pointing it out!

We reached Namche just after midday, and predictably Red Squadron were out on an acclimatisation trek. They returned at around 1400hrs.

-Chris