28th March

1655hrs, Lobuche

Walk-time: 3.5hrs and 2hrs

Ascent/Descent: 4910m (Lobuche) – 5140m (Gorak Shep) – 4910m (Lobuche)

I am very glad not to have gone to Everest Base Camp – I managed to score 6 on the Lake-Louise score by the time we’d reached Gorak Shep. The moraine was murderous, treacherous landscape to walk through and deceitful to boot. Just as you finish scrambling over what seems like the last ridge, another larger one appears to mock your efforts and force you to expend even more of your coveted energy.

Not that I did much scrambling – today’s walk was worse than yesterday. I already had the headache, dizziness and nausea when I woke up at 0350hrs, and two Paracetamol did nothing to relive it. Eventually at 0530hrs we left, and before long I descended into my own private hell.

My thighs felt on the verge of cramp at all times, my arms soon decided to get in on the act and were accompanied by my shoulders. At times I simply let my arms hang by my side and let my poles drag behind me. My mind fogged and my head had its own drumbeat, trying to burst out and fill the whole of the Khumbu with its song. And I am glad to only have one bowl of porridge for breakfast. At times I thought that if I fell to the ground I wouldn’t want to rise, and I was always on the verge of turning around and going back to bed.

So it was in a haze of pain that I finally arrived at my target destination – Gorak Shep, the original Base Camp that Hillary and Tenzing set out from on their historic climb nearly 60yrs ago. Team One were still there and readjusting to depart for their own Base Camp, and were surprised to see us there – it turned out Team Two managed the Lobuche to Gorak Shep walk 15min faster than Team One. Then again they did set off in darkness!

Sheltering from the elements just before the mounds

Water, rest and two Ibuprofen later I finally felt more human, but it was clear that I had reached my Vertical Limit for this venture. I was spent, my whole being crying for Amanda and a warm bed, and even though Kala Patthar would be only one more hour of climbing I didn’t even have that in me. All I could do was sit and feel proud that in so few days I’d managed so much. I think anyone would be proud of that achievement, that if anyone could go through these last ten days they’d also feel an intense pride and satisfaction in what had been done. And I will take away with me the firm knowledge that next time I’m here, I will reach Base Camp. All I needed was a rest day here in Lobuche, a chance to acclimatise to the scant oxygen, a full night’s sleep, and I would storm Base Camp in the following days.

Descending was a glorious feeling, my tortured legs now screaming for joy as I finally let them go downhill as opposed to up. Within an hour of leaving Gorak Shep I was feeling amazing once more, confident that I could handle the last three gruelling days of punishment as required. Although I once again didn’t feel the thickening air, I could feel the effects as I could breathe easier and my muscles finally got the oxygen they required. And even if it was psychological and placebo effect I’ll accept that. Either way I’m back to 0 on the Lake-Louise score, and you can’t complain about that!

It wasn’t just me feeling the altitude – Lucy dropped from Team One to join us as she finally began to suffer. Given she’s without Diamox she’s done a fantastic job though, so no-one can fault her that.

The team suffered its third major casualty last night – Matt, who has been struggling with his health for the last week, was escorted back to Pheriche at about half-seven. He’s done well though, battling breathing problems and a bug or two, so no-one can really question his achievements.

One last casualty to add to the list – my faithful sonic screwdriver finally succumbed to the cold and no longer gives light!

I am now on the reserve camera, as my digi-cam can only record 4min of video now – one for each day on the way home. But I do have two spare films and 1 spare battery for that one, so all is not lost yet.

Team One should be at Base Camp by now, and will overnight at Gorak Shep before rendezvous with us tomorrow morning. Providing things don’t go Lukla of course…

-Chris

Team Two prepare to leave Gorak Shep